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Glossary of French Jewelry Terms©
Excerpted
from Warman’s
Jewelry,
3nd Edition
Krause Publications,
2002
In order for us to understand each other when talking about antique
and period jewelry, we must have a common vocabulary. The problem
for monolingual Americans is that a great many jewelry terms are
French. French jewelers were the leaders of the jewelry industry,
and so France is where the language of jewelry-making evolved.
The terms used there were adopted by English and American jewelers
and thus are part of our jewelry vocabulary today. Below is a
list of the most commonly used terms, their approximate
phonetic pronunciation (nasal and glottal sounds are difficult
to transcribe!), their literal translations and jewelry-related
definitions.
à jour [ah ZHOOR] lit., open to the day. The
opening of a setting to allow light to pass through a gemstone
basse-taille [bahs TIE yuh] lit., low-cut.
Enameling technique: translucent enamel applied over an engraved
or otherwise decorated surface (metal ground plate)
calibré [kal ee BRAY] lit., calibrated. Gemstones
cut to fit a specific setting, often in rows or groups
cannetille [kan TEE yuh]: lit., flat twisted braid (of
gold or silver). Decorative technique: twisted wire filigree
forming cone-shaped scrolls or spirals, usually as part of a
setting or framework for gemstones
champlevé [chaw le VAY] lit., raised field. Enameling
technique: stamped or engraved depressions in a metal ground
plate filled with opaque enamel
cliquet [klee KAY] lit., catch. Type of pin having two
ornamental terminals, one at each end of a pinstem, the pointed
end having a snap closure or other mechanism for attachment.
When worn, the pinstem is invisible. A.k.a. jabot pin, sûreté.
cloisonné [klwah son NAY] lit., partitioned
off. Enameling technique: designs formed with metal wires or
strips mounted on a metal ground plate and filled with opaque
enamel
échelle [ay SHELL] lit., ladder. Series of graduated
gem-set brooches or dress ornaments (often a bow motif) worn
vertically (large to small) down the front of a bodice, 17th
- 18th centuries.
en esclavage [awn es kla VAJH] lit., enslaved. A necklace
or bracelet of identical or graduated plaques joined by swagged
chains, usually three or more.
en résille [aw ray ZEE yuh] lit., in a hair-net.
A flexible trellis or network, usually of diamonds and platinum,
often forming a dog collar or other close-fitting necklace,
originated by Cartier, early 20th century.
en tremblant [aw traw BLÃ] lit., trembling. A
flowerhead or other decorative element mounted on a wire or
spring attached to a jewel, usually a brooch, which moves (trembles)
with the wearer’s movements.
faux [foe] lit., false or fake. Term applied to non-precious
jewelry set with imitation gemstones.
ferronière [fair own ee AIR] lit., blacksmith’s
wife. A narrow band, usually with a central jewel, worn around
the forehead, originally worn in the 15th century.
girandole [jhee rahn DOLE] lit., chandelier. Form of
earring or brooch with three pear-shaped pendent drops, suspended
from a central stone or motif, often a bow.
guilloché [gee oh SHAY] lit., engine-turned.
Machine-engraved decoration on metal, over which a translucent
enamel is often applied (called guilloché enamel)
habillé [ah bee YAY] lit., dressed up. In reference
to cameos, depicting women wearing some form of gem-set jewelry
jabot [zhah BOW] (pin) lit., ruffle or frill. See cliquet.
jarretière [zhar et teeAIR] lit., garter. Usually
refers to a bracelet, a gold or gold-filled mesh strap with
fringed terminals and sliding ornamental closure
Limoges [lee MOZH] (enamel) Enameling technique: painted
enamel applied one color at a time, fired after every application,
producing a picture-like image, named after a town in France
where the technique originated. Painted enamel in shades of
gray is called grisaille [gree SYE yuh].
lorgnette [lorn YET] a pair of spectacles with an attached
handle, usually suspended from a neckchain
manchette [maw SHET] lit., cuff. Bangle bracelet tapering
out in the shape of a sleeve cuff
négligée [nay glee ZHAY] lit., negligent,
careless. A type of pendant or necklace with two drops suspended
unevenly
pampille [pahm PEE yuh] articulated row of graduated
gemstones or pastes terminating in a tapered pointed drop; grouping
of pampilles also called aiguillettes [ay gwee
YET], from aiguille (lit., needle)
parure [pah ROOR] lit., set. A matched suite of jewelry,
of three or more pieces (demi-parure: two matched pieces,
e.g., brooch and earrings)
pavé [pah VAY] lit., paved. Numerous small gemstones
set close together.
pendeloque [paw d’LOKE] lit., drop or pendant. Pear-shaped
drop earring, suspended from a circular or bow-shaped surmount
piqué [pee KAY] lit., pricked. The inlaying
of gold or silver in patterns, usually into tortoiseshell or
ivory. Piqué posé [poe ZAY]: floral or
ornate patterns of inlay; piqué point [pweh]:
geometric shapes or dots.
plaque de cou [plak de KOO] lit., plate of the neck.
Central ornamental plaque of a dog collar necklace.
plique à jour [pleek ah ZHOOR] lit., (enamel)
open to the day. Enameling technique in which the groundplate
is removed after firing, the translucent enamel then resembling
stained glass.
repoussé [ruh poo SAY] lit., pushed back or out.
Raised design in metal. Repoussage: Technique of raising
metal, working from the back side
rivière [ree vee AIR] lit., river or stream.
A short necklace of graduated gemstones, usually diamonds, in
linked collet settings.
sautoir [soTWAHR] a long necklace or neckchain, strand
of pearls or beads, often terminating in a tassel or pendant
sévigné [say veen YAY] a bow brooch set
with diamonds, worn on the bodice (three or more worn en
échelle), popular from the 17th century,
named after the Marquise de Sévigné (1626-96),
of the court of Louis XIV
sûreté [soor TAY] (pin) lit., safety, security.
See cliquet.
taille d’épargne [tie yuh day PARN] lit., saving
(economical) cut. Enamel technique: engraved design partially
filled with opaque enamel, usually black (a.k.a. "black
enamel tracery")
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